Laura Rogora claims historic first female 8c+ onsight, 'Ultimate Sacrifice' at the Gorges du Loup

Just hours ago at the Déversé crag in France's Gorges du Loup, the 24-year-old Italian climber Laura Rogora onsighted Ultimate Sacrifice, becoming the first woman in the world to onsight an 8c+.

This extraordinary feat caps a stellar trip that began with her repeating Just two fix (9a/+) in a mere 8 attempts. After a rest day, she delivered a performance that significantly raises the bar for women's climbing, and one that has been matched by very few men. Success follows her previous three 8c onsights, and came about on her first-ever attempt to onsight a route of this caliber. To crown the day, she also sent the 9a Trip Tip Tonik  in just 3 attempts spread out over the same day. No wonder she called it "Without a doubt, my best climbing day ever."

Speaking to PlanetMountain immediately after her achievement, Rogora revealed she nearly fell twice – on the opening 8b section and again in the finale where she couldn’t see the holds. "Luckily, I managed to downclimb and recover for a second." Then she powered her way to the chain. 8c+ onsight. Insane.

Previously, the best female onsight stood at 8c, first achieved by Janja Garnbret with Fish Eye and American Hustle (Oliana, Spain, 2021). She was followed in 2022 by South Korea’s Chaehyun Seo (L’Antagoniste, Montsant, Spain) and in 2023 by Rogora herself (Ajo crudo, Siurana, Spain).

The world’s first 8c+ onsight dates back to 2007, when Basque powerhouse Paxti Usobiaga freed Bizi euskaraz at Etxauri in Spain.