Up & Down freed by Brenna on Chogolisa
On 10 July Cristian Brenna and Giovanni Ongaro freed "Up & Down", the route on the Chogolisa's Central Pillar (5300m circa - S-SE) first ascended by Hervé Barmasse, Luca Maspes, Francesca Chenal and Brenna himself at the end of June.
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 On 10 July Cristian Brenna and Giovanni Ongaro freed "Up & Down", the route on the Chogolisa's Central Pillar (5300m circa - S-SE) first ascended by Hervé Barmasse, Luca Maspes, Francesca Chenal and Brenna hiimself at the end of June. The 800m route, reviously graded 6c/7a A1, now goes free at F7c. it was first ascended over a six day period, but the two italians now freed the line in a single push. "Up & Down" is the fourth new route of the Trip One Karakorum 2005 expedition. The others are "Fast And Furious" (700m, V°, 4° ice M6), "Green tea" (350m 6b, A1, 1 pendulum) and "Costiera del Farol Peak" (800m, 60° mixed terrain close to the summit).
SCUDO DEL CHOGOLISA (5300m circa) via "UP & DOWN" S-SE Face, Central Pillar Length: 800m, 16 pitches Grade: 6c/7a and A1, freed 7c Herve Barmasse - Cristian Brenna - Luca Maspes - Francesca Chenal 6 days climbing Fixed ropes used on the lower section FFA: Cristian Brenna and Giovanni Ongaro, 10 hours, 7c SCUDO DEL CHOGOLISA (5300m circa) via "GREEN TEA" S-SE Face, First Pillar Length: 350m Grade: 6b, A1, 1 pendulum Ezio Marlier - Fabio Salini - 22/6/2005 Alpine style COSTIERA DEL FAROL PEAK (6300m circa) Unclimbed peak (still to be named) - 6000 m c. NW Face F.A. Hervé Barmasse (summit) and Giovanni Pagnoncelli - 28/6/2005 Length: 800m grade.: Ice 60° and mixed terrain close to the summit Alpine style
Photos: Giovanni Ongaro belaying Cristian Brenna during the first free ascent of Up & Down, the line of the route. Cristian Brenna on Chogolisa. (ph Giovanni Pagnoncelli) | |||||||||||
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