Mummy heads into the mountains

As soon as I get the chance, whenever my “mom” commitments allow me to, I head into the Mountains. They're a place where sometimes I even manage to relax a bit. I say sometimes, because after having not touched rock for a long time, I start off feeling afraid, the void makes me anxious and everything seems more difficult.

Today, thanks to the Grandparents who are looking after my two children, I can finally go climbing, Not too far away because I don’t want to get home late, and a route that isn’t too long because I don’t want to fall asleep before dinner! Having a partner who is “addicted” to the mountains can help, but you need to go careful with Ivo. I have to give serious consideration to whatever he suggests, he certainly doesn’t do things by halves.

We opt for a route I know already, but every time I repeat it it’s different, enjoyable and tough enough to satisfy my cravings: the Cassin route on Torre Palma, a slender spire in the nearby Grigne massif. An approach that warms body and legs, an area that is popular, but not too much so ... it’s unlikely you'll ever have to queue up on the Cassin route, or wait at the belays. We set off early, not without double-checking my rucksack and that of my climbing partner, otherwise we’re done for!

We coast aloingside the mountain at half-height, and after gaining some altitude we finally reach the base of Palma, a resin start with a faded route name indicating the start. As a result of the "sorting" of the routes at Grignetta and around Lecco, the Cassin has changed, the original route has changed, the black slabs on the left were climbed and equipped. I don't need to share my opinion about this, simply because I climb when I can, and just try to have fun, I'm not interest in ethics and and controversies.

Attraversiamo a mezza costa lungo il tortuoso sentiero e dopo un po’ di dislivello eccoci finalmente alla base del Palma, un resinato d’inizio con tanto di scritta sbiadita indica l’attacco. Durante la "sistemazione" delle vie in Grignetta e nel lecchese, la Cassin è cambiata, il percorso originale ha subito delle modifiche, sono state salite e attrezzate le placche nere alla sua sinistra. Esprimere il mio giudizio a tal proposito non è necessario, semplicemente perché io vado quando posso e cerco solo di divertirmi, etica e polemiche varie non fanno parte del mio interesse.

Ivo sets off, the forecast sun remains snugly asleep, on the other hand the usual cloud that hovers over Grignetta for many days a year is there, joined by a stiff breeze; it doesn’t feel like spring in the slightest. I make the first clumsy moves, difficult, without and coordination whatsoever. “Take in the slack!”

Cassin certainly wouldn’t have had any difficulties climbing these slabs, his technique was deeply ingrained in his DNA. In those days it was almost impossible to protect yourself adequately with normal pegs, those pegs that I now glimpse a few meters to my right, abandoned to their fate, steeped in both history and time.

Frozen hands at each belay, the base of the route becomes increasingly distant, the void encompasses everything, a bit of normal fear grabs hold and yet time time passes quickly.

We are on top, I wore all the clothes I had, am layered and still feel cold, but I am happy, for so many things, for the day, the cold, the verticality, the pain in my arms and the desire that grabs hold of me when I haven't seen my children for a few hours, the desire to return home and hear them arguing, hugging each other and to watch them grow... thinking about the next chance to feel worried again.

In the evening we all sit in front of the TV, all except for one, Ivo*, who fell asleep before dinner! Long live Mothers.

Federica Maslowsky


* Ivo Ferrari, Editor's note