Matterhorn first winter ascent of Padre Pio, Une Echelle Vers le Ciel by François Cazzanelli, Emrik Favre, Francesco Ratti

Between the 27th of February and the 1st of March, Italian alpinists François Cazzanelli, Emrik Favre and Francesco Ratti successfully made the first repeat and first winter ascent of Padre Pio Prega Per Noi + Echelle Ver le Ciel (1,870m, 7b) on the South face of the Matterhorn.

Padre Pio Prega Per Noi was established in 2002 by French mountaineer Patrick Gabarrou with Nicolae Morar, Maxime Lopez and Cesare Ravaschietto and climbs a 700m line to the top of the Pilastro dei Fiori pillar. The extension, all the way to the summit, is called Echelle Ver le Ciel (Stairway to Heaven) and was first ascended by Gabarrou with various climbing partners and completed in 2015. The The first ascent of this link-up was made by Patrick Gabarrou in 2016.

Cazzanelli, Favre and Ratti managed to free-climb the entire 41-pitch route over 3 days, with 2 very tough bivies at 3900m and then 4200m and daytime temperatures in the region of -10°C, dropping down to -20°C at night. Success came about after a prior attempt in March 2021, abandoned due to prohibitive conditions.

Cazzanelli, who in summer 2013 repeated Padre Pio Prega Per Noi, commented now: "The most difficult moment was before the first bivy because we had to find a place to sleep in the dark and preparing everything without light is really complicated. We are really pleased, because we’ve been waiting all winter for the right opportunity to try this project again. I really wanted to profit from this dry winter with good weather to complete a great project, and I am happy it was on my home mountain, the Matterhorn. We are all pleased to have repeated this incredible route in the cold season. Another fantastic vision from the great Patrick Gabarrou."

Cazzanelli thanks: La Sportiva, Julbo, Garmin, Grivel, Ski Trab e Cervinia Valtournenche Ski Paradise