Histoire sans Fin free at last on Petit Clocher du Portalet by Seb Berthe, Siebe Vanhee

Last week, Sébastien Berthe and I were incredibly lucky to make the first two free ascents of what we consider the best granite multipitch of the grade in Europe, Histoire sans Fin. It might even be the only of the grade.

It’s been a year since I’ve heard some rumours about a new, incredibly clean and hard, line on Swiss’ Petit Clocher du Portalet near Martigny. In 2001 Didier Berthod and François Mathey opened the famous second pitch off the ledge, a 45 meter long 7c+ splitter crack, naturally protected. One of the best! The splitter ends in the middle of the beautiful pillar, in the middle of nowhere – the “Never Ending Story”. The smooth granite above had to wait almost 20 years before Fabien Borter and Bertrand Martenet imagined an incredible bolted continuation of the route, following blank slabs and arêtes to the summit. Despite their great visioning, the climb had to wait until 2020 when they got help of Didier Berthod to find the missing link pitch, a beautiful orange arête graded 8b.

The end of June, together with Jean-Eli Lugon we found a small window to go and try ‘Histoire’. I got my ass kicked completely and was in a terrible physical state. Nevertheless, I realised it was one of the best lines I had ever tried. Last week I returned with Sebastien, physically in a way better shape but still intimidated by the line. I mainly went up to have another look and see how it would go. But with the sending vibe Seb brought with us on the wall I was quickly contaminated. We both worked the crux pitch until Seb strongly sent. I felt I needed little tries more to send as well but Seb’s time was running out for a ‘one day first day’ ascent. We continued and he pulled out a strong physical and mental fight, we topped out at night! This day Seb made the first free ascent. As always, he was strong and kept giving every pitch sending tries until he surprisingly did!

Three days later it was my turn, I returned with the support of Seb and Soline. this time convinced I could climb the route. I fired up the 7c+ splitter, continued the 7c traverse pitch to the base of the crux pitch. Suddenly I found myself in the crux of the 8b+ pitch, a super technical boulder problem where the right pressure on microscopic footholds makes the seemingly impossible moves possible. It’s all in the head, you need to dare and push on the feet. It went smooth, I managed to send on my first go. The 8b pitch, the slabby but strenuous arete, was a mental fight. Scary but magical, that’s what comes to mind when I think of that pitch. It felt so impossible on the first try, it’s scary to push so much on the feet but once you find the right pressure and balance, the magic happens. Again, I sent this pitch on the first go! The last challenge is a spicy 8a+ slab. I climbed well but nervous, a brain fart happened and I fell at the very last difficult section. Thanks to Seb and Soline, I relativized my lame fall, returned to the anchor and just cruised it to the summit!

It’s been an honour, really! An honour to be able to climb on a wall that beautiful, a route that magical, with the support and enthusiasm of Jean-Eli, Seb and Soline. But not only that, we both are impressed by the openness and kindness of the locals. We had the pleasure to meet Didier Berthod and Francois Mathey together with many others in the cosy ‘Cabane de Orny’ hosted by Yanik and his crew. It’s great to see how the climbing community lives in that mountain hut. Thanks to you all for the great vibes.

by Siebe Vanhee

Links: FB Siebe Vanhee, www.siebevanhee.be, La Sportiva, Petzl