Vivere la Vita - Peak Slesova Contrafforte Sud - Wall of Dykes - Peak 3810
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Federica Mingolla, Guida alpina
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Vivere la Vita: Peak Slesova Contrafforte Sud - Wall of Dykes - Peak 3810
Planetmountain
Bellezza
Primi salitori
Niccolò Bartoli, Federica Mingolla 08/2022. Gli ultimi 4 tiri sono stati aperti con il basco Jon Segurola.
Autore scheda
Federica Mingolla, Guida alpina
Lunghezza dislivello
800m
Difficoltà
7b max
Percorso
Vivere la vita supera la parete ovest del Contrafforte Sud di Peak Slesova, anche denominato Wall of Dykes oppure Peak 3810 con difficoltà che non sono estreme, infatti si parla di una scalata continua intorno al 6c con qualche lunghezza di 7a e un 7b. La via comunque è da integrare con molti friend (2 serie + micro), non sempre facile da intuire e molto lunga. Farla in un giorno è da fuoriclasse!
Le soste sono attrezzate con fix dell’8 ad anello di calata e, soprattutto, queste ultime sono dritte. Unica pecca, se così vogliamo definirla, è che le corde devono essere da 70m.
In ogni caso credo che ad oggi sia la via attrezzata meglio in termine di materiali e usura di questi, grazie ovviamente al fatto che è nuova e che abbiamo deciso di non decimare sugli spit alle soste.
Le soste sono attrezzate con fix dell’8 ad anello di calata e, soprattutto, queste ultime sono dritte. Unica pecca, se così vogliamo definirla, è che le corde devono essere da 70m.
In ogni caso credo che ad oggi sia la via attrezzata meglio in termine di materiali e usura di questi, grazie ovviamente al fatto che è nuova e che abbiamo deciso di non decimare sugli spit alle soste.
Itinerario
Pitch 1: 4 50m, follow an easy way to the right until the belay
Pitch 2: easy scrambling to reach the base of the 3rd pitch, belay
Pitch 3: 35m no bolts, 6b, follow the right until you see a dihedral, follow it, then you have two options: easy offwidth or on the left of it easy crack ,difficult to see from down, belay on a good pillar
Pitch 4: 45m, 3 bolts, 6c, follow the crack then at the end traverse a little on the right, bolted slab, belay on the little ledge (this is the only belay you should make with cams or you can go on, pay attention at the attrition)
Pitch 5: 25m, 1 bolt, 6b, little boulder near the bolt then easy crack climbing, traverse on the left at the end to reach the ledge with the belay station
Pitch 6: 35m, 3 bolts, 7a, it starts with a chimney and then at the second bolt you should traverse on the left downclimbing until reaching an easy way to climb up again and reaching the 3rd bolt. From there crack climbing. Last hard traverse move to reach the belay station on the left.
Pitch 7: 40m, 3 bolts, 7b, come back in the dihedral and climb it up until the end, then follow on the left the bolts, last part is a split crack really nice to climb, belay on a little ledge (you skip it on the way down)
Pitch 8: 35m, 5 bolts 6b, traverse on the left, follow the crack in the dihedral then traverse on the left. Always climbing on the left until you see the belay under the roof. Belay on little ledge
Pitch 9: 45m, 6 bolts, 7a, before easy climbing with big holds under the roof, then slab climbing, after the last bolt traverse totally on the right. Belay on a good ledge.
Pitch 10: 40m, 4 bolts, 6c, climbing traversing slowly to the left, you see bolts, crux is well protected by the 1st bolt. Belay not really comfortable(you skip it in the way down)
Pitch 11: 25m, 7a, go to the right and reach the arch with the crack, when it turns right go straight on the slab crossing the little roof and reach the belay on little ledge.
Pitch 12: 55m, 3 bolts 6b go on the left and follow the semi-dihedral then traverse on the right after the last bolt, there’s a good ledge, belay on the top of the right
Pitch 13: 50m, 6 bolts 6c, hard to find the first bolts, from the belay climbing traversing on the left, hard to protect with cams.
Pitch 14: 55m, 3 bolts 6b, after the 1 bolt traverse on the left and follow the dihedral, belay on a good ledge. Possible good bivy two people on the left, climb up 15 meters on easy cracks, 1 bolt on the ledge for belaying and rappelling down
Pitch 15: 2 bolts, 6a, 1 piton e 1 nut, 30m, after the 2nd bolt traverse on the right, nut and piton, go straight on to reach the ledge.
Pitch 16: 45m, 6b 1 piton e 1 nut, after the piton go straight on and then right, there’s a nut stuck, from there climbing straight on and left, belay on a good ledge
Pitch 17: 40m, 6b 1 piton, 1 bolt, go on the left, after the first bolt go straight on 5 meters and then traverse on the left, good ledge, piton, go straight on and follow the crack system on the left until it becomes thin, traverse on the right, belay on very little ledge.
Pitch 18: 40m, 6c, 1 nut, follow the slab up the belay station, after the nut go straight on 3 meters and then turn left to follow the evident arch with the crack . Follow it until you see the belay.
Pitch 19: 40m, 6c, 3 bolts, 1st bolt on the slab, then climb going up to the right, reach the roof where it’s easier, there you can put some cams, just up to the roof there is a bolt, from there slab climbing to reach the belay station.
Pitch 20: 30m, 5, 1 bolt, easy climbing to reach the belay on a good ledge
Pitch 21: 35m, 6b+ crack Climbing, belay at the end of the crack on a good ledge
Pitch 22: 35m, 2 bolts, 6c, go to the right to the thin crack and climbing to the top of the pillar then straight on the slab, belay on a good ledge
Pitch 23: 50m, 5, follow the crack straight on the belay then go on the left and follow the easy climbing that bring you on a good ledge (belay, you skip it on the way down)
Pitch 24: 40m, 2 bolts, 6a, slab climbing to the right until reaching the ledge, belay on the big pillar on the right (rappel down 70m rope). Discesa
In calata lungo la via.
Pitch 1: 4 50m, follow an easy way to the right until the belay
Pitch 2: easy scrambling to reach the base of the 3rd pitch, belay
Pitch 3: 35m no bolts, 6b, follow the right until you see a dihedral, follow it, then you have two options: easy offwidth or on the left of it easy crack ,difficult to see from down, belay on a good pillar
Pitch 4: 45m, 3 bolts, 6c, follow the crack then at the end traverse a little on the right, bolted slab, belay on the little ledge (this is the only belay you should make with cams or you can go on, pay attention at the attrition)
Pitch 5: 25m, 1 bolt, 6b, little boulder near the bolt then easy crack climbing, traverse on the left at the end to reach the ledge with the belay station
Pitch 6: 35m, 3 bolts, 7a, it starts with a chimney and then at the second bolt you should traverse on the left downclimbing until reaching an easy way to climb up again and reaching the 3rd bolt. From there crack climbing. Last hard traverse move to reach the belay station on the left.
Pitch 7: 40m, 3 bolts, 7b, come back in the dihedral and climb it up until the end, then follow on the left the bolts, last part is a split crack really nice to climb, belay on a little ledge (you skip it on the way down)
Pitch 8: 35m, 5 bolts 6b, traverse on the left, follow the crack in the dihedral then traverse on the left. Always climbing on the left until you see the belay under the roof. Belay on little ledge
Pitch 9: 45m, 6 bolts, 7a, before easy climbing with big holds under the roof, then slab climbing, after the last bolt traverse totally on the right. Belay on a good ledge.
Pitch 10: 40m, 4 bolts, 6c, climbing traversing slowly to the left, you see bolts, crux is well protected by the 1st bolt. Belay not really comfortable(you skip it in the way down)
Pitch 11: 25m, 7a, go to the right and reach the arch with the crack, when it turns right go straight on the slab crossing the little roof and reach the belay on little ledge.
Pitch 12: 55m, 3 bolts 6b go on the left and follow the semi-dihedral then traverse on the right after the last bolt, there’s a good ledge, belay on the top of the right
Pitch 13: 50m, 6 bolts 6c, hard to find the first bolts, from the belay climbing traversing on the left, hard to protect with cams.
Pitch 14: 55m, 3 bolts 6b, after the 1 bolt traverse on the left and follow the dihedral, belay on a good ledge. Possible good bivy two people on the left, climb up 15 meters on easy cracks, 1 bolt on the ledge for belaying and rappelling down
Pitch 15: 2 bolts, 6a, 1 piton e 1 nut, 30m, after the 2nd bolt traverse on the right, nut and piton, go straight on to reach the ledge.
Pitch 16: 45m, 6b 1 piton e 1 nut, after the piton go straight on and then right, there’s a nut stuck, from there climbing straight on and left, belay on a good ledge
Pitch 17: 40m, 6b 1 piton, 1 bolt, go on the left, after the first bolt go straight on 5 meters and then traverse on the left, good ledge, piton, go straight on and follow the crack system on the left until it becomes thin, traverse on the right, belay on very little ledge.
Pitch 18: 40m, 6c, 1 nut, follow the slab up the belay station, after the nut go straight on 3 meters and then turn left to follow the evident arch with the crack . Follow it until you see the belay.
Pitch 19: 40m, 6c, 3 bolts, 1st bolt on the slab, then climb going up to the right, reach the roof where it’s easier, there you can put some cams, just up to the roof there is a bolt, from there slab climbing to reach the belay station.
Pitch 20: 30m, 5, 1 bolt, easy climbing to reach the belay on a good ledge
Pitch 21: 35m, 6b+ crack Climbing, belay at the end of the crack on a good ledge
Pitch 22: 35m, 2 bolts, 6c, go to the right to the thin crack and climbing to the top of the pillar then straight on the slab, belay on a good ledge
Pitch 23: 50m, 5, follow the crack straight on the belay then go on the left and follow the easy climbing that bring you on a good ledge (belay, you skip it on the way down)
Pitch 24: 40m, 2 bolts, 6a, slab climbing to the right until reaching the ledge, belay on the big pillar on the right (rappel down 70m rope). Discesa
In calata lungo la via.
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Commenti
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Bellezza
Primi salitori
Niccolò Bartoli, Federica Mingolla 08/2022. Gli ultimi 4 tiri sono stati aperti con il basco Jon Segurola.
Autore scheda
Federica Mingolla, Guida alpina
Lunghezza dislivello
800m
Difficoltà
7b max
Percorso
Itinerari nello stesso gruppo montuoso
News correlate
25/08/2022 - Alpinismo
Contrafforte di Peak Slesova: Federica Mingolla e Niccolò Bartoli aprono una big wall nella Ak-Su Valley in Kirghizistan Nella Ak-Su Valley nel Pamir Alay in Kirghizistan Federica Mingolla e Niccolò Bartoli hanno aperto Vivere la vita, una big wall di 800m con difficoltà fino al 7b sul contrafforte...