Terza Cengia del Pomagagnon - Forcella Zumeles
![Terza Cengia del Pomagagnon Forcella Zumeles](/uploads/img/1/91808.jpg)
Terza Cengia del Pomagagnon
Beauty
By
Planetmountain.com
Orientation
South
Ascent height difference
1000m
Ferrata height difference
500m
Height
2300m
Difficulty
Medium
Time
6 hours
Period
From June to October, depending on snow conditions.
Popularity
low
This beautiful excursion along Cortina’s northern Croda peaks up the third of five ledges on the Pomagagnon is in fact an airy but not particularly difficult path. Well-equipped in its most exposed sections, it traverses the mountain’s southern face from east to west in an increasingly steep diagonal line. The broad view sweeps freely and fantastically over the Ampezzo basin onto Sorapis, Croda da Lago, Tofane and remote Pelmo and Cristallo. A sight not to be missed!
Getting there
From Cortina take the SS 51 to the small village Chiave (1319 m), located about 2.5 Km to the north of the center of Cortina. Continue to the Istituto Elioterapico Putti above the village and park the car here. Access
Close to Istituto Elioterapeutico Putti path no. 202 leads in about 1 1/2 hours through the woods to the base of the large open scree-filled gully that leads up to Forcella del Pomagagnon. Instead of following the path left up into the gully turn right and continue along a narrow track that leads to the start of the traverse. Itinerary
Climb steeply and cross beneath Testa del Bartoldo (2442m), the third peak of five from the left that mark this broken Pomagagnon crest. Once past the exposed southern arete of Costa del Bartoldo (2435m) descend slightly by continuing along the ledge towards the gully that separates Costa del Bartoldo from nearby Croda Cestellis (2250m). Cross this steep gully and ascend up rocky terrain towards the col that divides Croda Cestellis from Punta Erbing (2301), the final two peaks on Pomagagnon’s eastern flank. At this point the ledge terminates and the path continues east following cairns along the opposite side of the ridge that opens out onto Val Grande and the Cristallo massif. The path takes a wide arc and coasts beneath the Crepe di Zuméles walls before leading to the homonymous pass, Forcella Zuméles (2072m). Descent
Descend from Forcella delle Zumeles (from where path no. 205 leads to Rif Franchetti at the foot of the Cristallo massif) following path no. 204 to the starting point at Chiave. Gear
Normal via ferrata kit. Maps/Bibliography
Via Ferratas of the Italian Dolomites: Vol 1 by John Smith and Graham Fletcher. Cicerone Press 2002 Difficulty
This very exposed route poses no particular difficulties but, given its total ascent, is best suited to well experienced, fit walkers. Due care and attention is required when crossing the rubble ledges.
From Cortina take the SS 51 to the small village Chiave (1319 m), located about 2.5 Km to the north of the center of Cortina. Continue to the Istituto Elioterapico Putti above the village and park the car here. Access
Close to Istituto Elioterapeutico Putti path no. 202 leads in about 1 1/2 hours through the woods to the base of the large open scree-filled gully that leads up to Forcella del Pomagagnon. Instead of following the path left up into the gully turn right and continue along a narrow track that leads to the start of the traverse. Itinerary
Climb steeply and cross beneath Testa del Bartoldo (2442m), the third peak of five from the left that mark this broken Pomagagnon crest. Once past the exposed southern arete of Costa del Bartoldo (2435m) descend slightly by continuing along the ledge towards the gully that separates Costa del Bartoldo from nearby Croda Cestellis (2250m). Cross this steep gully and ascend up rocky terrain towards the col that divides Croda Cestellis from Punta Erbing (2301), the final two peaks on Pomagagnon’s eastern flank. At this point the ledge terminates and the path continues east following cairns along the opposite side of the ridge that opens out onto Val Grande and the Cristallo massif. The path takes a wide arc and coasts beneath the Crepe di Zuméles walls before leading to the homonymous pass, Forcella Zuméles (2072m). Descent
Descend from Forcella delle Zumeles (from where path no. 205 leads to Rif Franchetti at the foot of the Cristallo massif) following path no. 204 to the starting point at Chiave. Gear
Normal via ferrata kit. Maps/Bibliography
Via Ferratas of the Italian Dolomites: Vol 1 by John Smith and Graham Fletcher. Cicerone Press 2002 Difficulty
This very exposed route poses no particular difficulties but, given its total ascent, is best suited to well experienced, fit walkers. Due care and attention is required when crossing the rubble ledges.
22/06/2015 Tobia Breda
Ho percorso ieri il tracciato ed è effettivamente pericoloso! È solo minimamente attrezzato, molto dissestato e pieno di fastidioso e scivoloso ghiaino.
Al tratto di cengia che sale a 60°, non dovrete procedere verso l'interno ma verso l'esterno per poter trovare appigli migliori. Qui non c'è nessuna protezione e/o indicazione ed un errore vi può costare molto caro (morte). La difficoltà dichiarata su molte guide e siti non è assolutamente in linea con il reale pericolo a cui si va incontro. Assolutamente da sconsigliare a chi non ha almeno delle nozioni di base di arrampicata ed evitare di essere in presenza di altri escursionisti (per evitare spiacevoli effetti domino).
05/06/2011 felice todde
Ha ragione Ernesto Majoni: non è la Forcella Zumeles, alla quale si può arrivare con percorso molto facile, ma la terza cengia del Pomagagnon (segnata in nero sulla guidina Kompass), non difficilissima in sé ma molto esposta e con i problemi che descrivete.
17/04/2009 Claudio Sacchi
Ho fatto la 3a Cengia diversi anni fa, commettendo però l'errore di percorrerla in discesa, cosa da evitare assolutamente per il molto ghiaino; evitare inoltre le ore più calde perchè è tutta a S. In sè non è difficile, tranne due passaggi esposti; la vista è stupenda su Cortina e monti circostanti.
27/09/2005 claudio galiazzo
Entusiasmante percorso di cengia soprattutto per la sua "aereicità", buona segnatura e sufficientemente attrezzato nei passaggi più delicati, da prestare attenzione nel percorrere il canalone di collegamento alla Croda Cestelis per la presenza di ghiaino su sfasciumi, conviene procedere sfruttando i lastroni di roccia più compatta sulla destra del percorso per evitare lo smottamento di sassi, necessario comunque il casco, cordino e moschettone.Da consigliarsi a tutti coloro che con buon allenamento ed assoluta mancanza di vertigini vogliono affrontare in "brivido" della parete dolomitica.
Beauty
By
Planetmountain.com
Orientation
South
Ascent height difference
1000m
Ferrata height difference
500m
Height
2300m
Difficulty
Medium
Time
6 hours
Period
From June to October, depending on snow conditions.
Popularity
low
Routes in the same mountain group
Show more in Pomagagnon