![Via Ferrata Cesco Tomaselli Fanis Sud](/uploads/img/1/91793.jpg)
Via Ferrata Cesco Tomaselli
Beauty
By
Planetmountain.com
Orientation
Southwest
Ascent height difference
500m
Ferrata height difference
300m
Height
2980m
Difficulty
Very Difficult
Time
3 hours - total 5.30
Period
From June to October, depending on snow conditions.
Popularity
high
The ‘Tomaselli’ takes an exposed but almost entirely equipped line up the SW face of the Punta Fanes Sud, the first tower on the Cresta di Fanes. Although this ferrata is not excessively long it is reputed to be one of the hardest and most beautiful in the Dolomites. The Cime di Fanes are also of historical interest as they were the scene of bitter First World War trench warfare. These aspects render the ‘Tomaselli’ one of the most worthwhile via ferrata in the Dolomites.
Getting there
From Cortina d’Ampezzo drive to Passo Falzarego (SS 48) and then take the Funivia del Lagazuoi cable car to the Lagazuoi refuge. Alternatively, reach the refuge by walking along path no. 402-401 (2 hrs - 630m height gain). Access
From Rif. Lagazuoi descend rapidly to Forcella del Lagazuoi and continue down the Armentarola piste to meet up with path no. 20b. Follow this and traverse beneath the NW crest of Lagazuoi Grande and then ascend to Forcella Granda to reach the Bivacco Della Chiesa, located near the start of the ferrata. Itinerary
The famous traverse leftwards, situated just after the start of the Tomaselli, has always been reputed to be a valid test. In other words, a good (and in general much used) testing ground to indicate the hiker’s level of ability for the harder vie ferrate to come. Immediately after the vertical start, and after having crossed the polished horizontal traverse (equipped with twin-cables) beneath the overhang, the itinerary continues through vertical exposed walls to the central section of the face. From here move left following the track to a fork, then continue up the right-hand vertical walls (the cables on the left lead to Alta Val di Fanes). At a terrace, reached with the help of a cable, continue up a series of steep walls that lead to the crest. From this after the final obstacle, a vertical crack-lined slab, continue easily to the summit (2980m). Descent
Descend fixed cables along the easier, but initially steep, route down the NE face. Once at the Selletta Fanis (2830m - 0,30) continue down the scree slope to reach Forcella Gasser de Pot, from where path no. 20b leads to Forcella Travenanzes (this time following its SW side to enjoy the shade throughout the descent). Path no. 401 then leads to the starting point at Passo Falzarego. Alternatively, ascend to Rif. Lagazuoi to then descend to Passo Falzarego by cable car. Gear
Normal via ferrata kit. Maps/Bibliography
Via Ferratas of the Italian Dolomites: Vol 1 by John Smith and Graham Fletcher. Cicerone Press 2002 Difficulty
This is a demanding Via Ferrata. The brief initial traverse and the vertical wall leading to the summit crest contain sections that are good indicators of the hiker’s ability.
From Cortina d’Ampezzo drive to Passo Falzarego (SS 48) and then take the Funivia del Lagazuoi cable car to the Lagazuoi refuge. Alternatively, reach the refuge by walking along path no. 402-401 (2 hrs - 630m height gain). Access
From Rif. Lagazuoi descend rapidly to Forcella del Lagazuoi and continue down the Armentarola piste to meet up with path no. 20b. Follow this and traverse beneath the NW crest of Lagazuoi Grande and then ascend to Forcella Granda to reach the Bivacco Della Chiesa, located near the start of the ferrata. Itinerary
The famous traverse leftwards, situated just after the start of the Tomaselli, has always been reputed to be a valid test. In other words, a good (and in general much used) testing ground to indicate the hiker’s level of ability for the harder vie ferrate to come. Immediately after the vertical start, and after having crossed the polished horizontal traverse (equipped with twin-cables) beneath the overhang, the itinerary continues through vertical exposed walls to the central section of the face. From here move left following the track to a fork, then continue up the right-hand vertical walls (the cables on the left lead to Alta Val di Fanes). At a terrace, reached with the help of a cable, continue up a series of steep walls that lead to the crest. From this after the final obstacle, a vertical crack-lined slab, continue easily to the summit (2980m). Descent
Descend fixed cables along the easier, but initially steep, route down the NE face. Once at the Selletta Fanis (2830m - 0,30) continue down the scree slope to reach Forcella Gasser de Pot, from where path no. 20b leads to Forcella Travenanzes (this time following its SW side to enjoy the shade throughout the descent). Path no. 401 then leads to the starting point at Passo Falzarego. Alternatively, ascend to Rif. Lagazuoi to then descend to Passo Falzarego by cable car. Gear
Normal via ferrata kit. Maps/Bibliography
Via Ferratas of the Italian Dolomites: Vol 1 by John Smith and Graham Fletcher. Cicerone Press 2002 Difficulty
This is a demanding Via Ferrata. The brief initial traverse and the vertical wall leading to the summit crest contain sections that are good indicators of the hiker’s ability.
20/10/2014 francesco gherlenda
Il bivacco è stato dismesso quest'anno(2014). Se salite a piedi dal Falzarego in un'oretta(non 2) evitate la funivia e potete ammirare i nuovi impianti per l'innevamento artificiale con relativa strada. Se non volete finanziare simili fioriture valutate secondo coscienza
08/09/2009 ELENA Castelvecchio
Un'esperienza davvero unica, molto molto entusiasmante. La tecnica senz'altro aiuta, l'esperienza anche, ma con la dovuta calma, serenità e concentrazione si arriva in cima anche se si è alle prime armi. E nel vedere un tale paradiso non si può che essere onorati!Grazie grazie!
06/09/2009 giovanni barbieri
agosto 09 avevamo fatto tante vie ferrate ma la tommaselli era rimasta un sogno.Filippo ci ha guidati in questa esperienza in maniera unica."cerca il facile nel difficile"ci ripeteva e cosi' tra una battuta e l'altra ci siamo trovati in cima.Unica molto appagante sotto tutti i profili.grazie
22/03/2009 Claudio Sacchi
Una precisazione: la galleria di guerra austriaca si trova risalendo verso W una larga cengia, è lunga circa 50 m. e non c'è bisogno di torcia, essendo dritta; sbuca su una cengia a metà della Tommaselli incrociando l'alta Via Veronesi. Buona escursione!!!
Beauty
By
Planetmountain.com
Orientation
Southwest
Ascent height difference
500m
Ferrata height difference
300m
Height
2980m
Difficulty
Very Difficult
Time
3 hours - total 5.30
Period
From June to October, depending on snow conditions.
Popularity
high
Routes in the same mountain group