Via Ferrata Marino Bianchi - Cristallo di Mezzo
![Via Ferrata Marino Bianchi Cristallo di Mezzo](/uploads/img/1/91792.jpg)
Via Ferrata Marino Bianchi
Beauty
By
Planetmountain.com
Orientation
Northwest crest
Ascent height difference
480m
Ferrata height difference
240m
Height
3163m
Difficulty
Medium
Time
4 hours
Period
From the end of May to October, depending on snow conditions.
Popularity
high
This short but panoramic itinerary follows the crest which, at 3000m, runs from Forcella Staunies to the summit of Cristallo di Mezzo. Equipped with cables and ladders, the highly popular “Marino Bianchi” is ascended and descended along the same line.
Getting there
From Cortina take the SS 48 towards Passo Tre Croci to Capanna Rio Gere and park at the start of the Sonforca chairlift (1698m), located beneath Mt. Cristallo. Access
Take the chairlift to Rif. Sonforca and continue in gondolas to Forcella Staunies (2919m). From the top of the lift walk to Rif. Guido Lorenzi (2932m), from where the first cables mark the start of the ferrata.
NOTE: the Staunies lift that leads to Monte Cristallo in the Dolomites was closed on 24/07/2016 until further notice due to 'technical and administrative problems.' Itinerary
The first cables lead up to the NE crest to then traverse beneath the Cima Nord. It then descends slightly to a narrow gully to a col which acts as the watershed between two steep gullys. The environment is harsh and attention is required as snow and ice may be found here due to the altitude and direction. Ascend once more, up ladders past two vertical walls and a series of ledges, to arrive at the ferrata’s hardest section: a smooth overhanging crack, about 10m in length. Once past this tiring crux section, which demands a careful ascent up the fixed cables, continue more easily along the crest. Level at first, the path finishes up stepped terrain to beneath the summit cairn and the panoramic Cristallo di Mezzo (3163). Descent
Descend along the line of ascent back down to Rifugio Guido Lorenzi. Gear
Normal via ferrata kit. Take winter gear at the start of the season. Maps/Bibliography
Via Ferratas of the Italian Dolomites: Vol 1 by John Smith and Graham Fletcher. Cicerone Press 2002 Difficulty
The “Marino Bianchi” is a highly popular, classic mid-grade ferrata. Due care and attention is required as snow and ice may still be found even in mid-summer given the altitude and direction it faces. Care is also required when encountering other groups since the line of descent is the same as for the ascent.
From Cortina take the SS 48 towards Passo Tre Croci to Capanna Rio Gere and park at the start of the Sonforca chairlift (1698m), located beneath Mt. Cristallo. Access
Take the chairlift to Rif. Sonforca and continue in gondolas to Forcella Staunies (2919m). From the top of the lift walk to Rif. Guido Lorenzi (2932m), from where the first cables mark the start of the ferrata.
NOTE: the Staunies lift that leads to Monte Cristallo in the Dolomites was closed on 24/07/2016 until further notice due to 'technical and administrative problems.' Itinerary
The first cables lead up to the NE crest to then traverse beneath the Cima Nord. It then descends slightly to a narrow gully to a col which acts as the watershed between two steep gullys. The environment is harsh and attention is required as snow and ice may be found here due to the altitude and direction. Ascend once more, up ladders past two vertical walls and a series of ledges, to arrive at the ferrata’s hardest section: a smooth overhanging crack, about 10m in length. Once past this tiring crux section, which demands a careful ascent up the fixed cables, continue more easily along the crest. Level at first, the path finishes up stepped terrain to beneath the summit cairn and the panoramic Cristallo di Mezzo (3163). Descent
Descend along the line of ascent back down to Rifugio Guido Lorenzi. Gear
Normal via ferrata kit. Take winter gear at the start of the season. Maps/Bibliography
Via Ferratas of the Italian Dolomites: Vol 1 by John Smith and Graham Fletcher. Cicerone Press 2002 Difficulty
The “Marino Bianchi” is a highly popular, classic mid-grade ferrata. Due care and attention is required as snow and ice may still be found even in mid-summer given the altitude and direction it faces. Care is also required when encountering other groups since the line of descent is the same as for the ascent.
01/09/2009 08-2009,imos
Ferrata molto bella per la sua semplicità ma nello stesso tempo offre un panorama mozzafiato.
(Nonna Rosanna l'ha percorsa,grandiosamente, come sua prima ferrata all'eta di 60 anni.brava)
17/04/2009 Claudio Sacchi
Ferrata discreta che ho compiuto diversi anni fa; stranamente, pur essendo una magnifica giornata, ero solo; l'altezza si fa sentire, però ho impiegato 2h 45' compresa la sosta su un terrazzino a Sud della cima, dove ho trovato una scatoletta di carne della 1a guerra: assaggiata, no mal di pancia
06/06/2008 carlo giorgioni
ferrata molto bella, anche se ha solo un paio di punti impegnativi.Sia per motivi emozionali, che per l'affollamento, bisogna farla partendo prestissimo dal Rifugio,perché dopo viene su la folla ed il percorso diventa un unico, intermonabile senso unico alternato, con il rischio di tempi inutilmente e incredibilmente allungati
18/04/2008 STEFANO BARTESAGHI
FERRATA MOLTO BELLA, SI ARRIVA SULLA CIMA DI MEZZO, CON UN PAESAGGIO A 360 GRADI, SI CONSIGLIA DI FARLA CON UNA BELLA GIORNATA, PER IL MERAVIGLIOSO PAESAGGIO
Beauty
By
Planetmountain.com
Orientation
Northwest crest
Ascent height difference
480m
Ferrata height difference
240m
Height
3163m
Difficulty
Medium
Time
4 hours
Period
From the end of May to October, depending on snow conditions.
Popularity
high
Routes in the same mountain group