The routesClimbing routes
Giai amus a obiare - Pedra Longa
6b
An interesting six-pitch climb that leads to the summit of the famous Pedra Longa sea stack at Baunei in Sardinia. The route tackles a line through the band of yellow wall rock to the left of the excellent Cromosomi Corsari,...
Parzival - Westliche Dreifaltigkeit
8b
Parzival on Westliche Dreifaltigkeit in the Alpstein group was established ground-up by Markus Hutter, Fabio Lupo and Michael Obendrauf and freed in May 2017 by Michael Wohlleben.
Hutter had made an early ground-up foray in 1998 together with Obendrauf, but after a...
Rayu - Peña Santa de Castilla
8c
Rayu was established ground-up on the south face of Peña Santa de Castilla in the Picos de Europa. The first part consists of seven pitches (about 300 m) with difficulties that do not exceed 7b, but many of them either...
Trog mi Wind - Große Speckkarplatte
7c
As a first ascensionist, you are never completely objective about your own climbs. But the rock quality is really very good and the climbing is also very varied. In my opinion, Trog mi Wind on the Floitenturm right next to the alla...
Leider Geil - Große Speckkarplatte
8a
Leider Geil on the Speckkarplatte is a really beautiful route on great rock! Every pitch is different from the previous one. In my opinion, it doesn't get much better than this.
Ryu-shin - Mirror Wall
8b/R/A2+
Bold climb up the center of the Mirror Wall, established ground-up and in excellent style by Julia Cassou, Sean Warren, Pete Whittaker and Sean Villanueva O’Driscoll after a previous attempt in summer 2023 by Franco Cookson, Ben Ditto, Nicolas Favresse and...
Sto imparando a volare - Punta Emma
7c/7c+
Sto imparando a volare on Punta Emma in the Rosengarten / Catinaccio massif ascends the obvious corridor of rock to the left and parallel to the recently opened Giupponi-Larcher. A climbs a direct line up very beautiful rock with increasing difficulties that peak at...
Eclissi - Torre di Mezzaluna
8a
Eclissi on Torre di Mezzaluna in Vallaccia is an interesting climb and on excellent rock. Established ground-up over a period of 3 days, plus a further 3 to clean the route, it follows a completely independent line between Giallo Dream...
C'era una volta il West - Rognon Vaudano
7a+
A beautiful route with amazing crack climbing and plenty of hand jams and laybacks on Rognon Vaudano, below Dent du Géant. The second-to-last, but especially the last pitch are really quite incredible.
Cric e Croc - Rognon Vaudano
6b+
A great 6-pitch outing that offers interesting cracks and some technical slabs on the beautiful red and grey granite wall about 150 meters high just below Dent du Géant.
Kind of Blue - Faraglione di Buggerru
6a
A modern, completely bolted climb located on the NE face Faraglione di Buggerru (West coast of Sardinia), locally known as 'La Vela'. This vertical, at times overhanging sea stack is 44 meters high and located close to one of the...
Electric Avenue - Aiguille du Midi, Grand Gendarme Arête des Cosmiques
7b
Electric Avenue is an interesting addition to the Gendarme des Cosmiques, only the third route on the granite monolith after Digital Crack (1990) and Arête Cosmiques (2013) and at 7b the easiest way to the summit. Note that if you climb...
Dietrich Hasse - Kapelo Peak
VII/A2
The first multipitch on Kapelo Peak, established rope solo by Vangelis Galanis. Except the first part of the sixth pitch, an overhang and absolutely blank wall, the rest of the route can be climbed free.
Il sole e la luna - Transatlantico
7a+/7b
Il sole e la luna, the sun and the moon, was established all free and ground-up without the use of aid between one bolt and the next. The rock is excellent, the third pitch is spectacular. The climb is totally...
Giupponi-Larcher - Punta Emma
7b+
The Giupponi-Larcher on the north face of Punta Emma, in front of the Vajolet Towers in the Rosengarten group, provides six pleasant pitches. Always beautiful rock, with a mix of traditional and modern difficulties.
Tokyo 2021 - Torre Est
7c+ (IX+)
Interesting route that climbs right through the middle of the beautiful, overhanging East Tower, located right in front of the Vajolet refuge. The rock required some attention and cleaning. The rock required some attention and cleaning. Comprised of five pitches,...
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