The routes

Classic mountaineering, ice climbing, mixed climbing

340
Routes in archive
Ussha
Ussha - Pyramide du Tacul
ED M7+
Brilliant addition to the SE Face of Pyramide du Tacul. Ussha climbs to the left of the classic Via Ottoz and to the right of the route put up by Enrico Bonino and Gianni Carbone. Essentially, it follows the abseil line of...
Bianco Invisibile
Bianco Invisibile - Aiguille Blanche de Peuterey
6c, M7, AI5
Bianco Invisibile tackles a line between Vols Incertains (Sébastien Ibanez, Baptiste Obino 2022) on the left and the route put up by Arnaud Clavel and Matteo Pellin on the right on the east face of Aiguille Blanche de Peuterey (4112m)...
L’Orco non va mai in vacanza
L’Orco non va mai in vacanza - Val di Enghe
WI4+, M5
A pleasant and logical mixed climb to the right of the famous Anche l’Orco va in vacanza (Even the Ogre Goes on Holiday). Overall, the difficulty is moderate, but the line is very enjoyable, a perfect combination with the other icefalls nearby. It certainly deserves...
I 3 Orchi
I 3 Orchi - Val di Enghe
WI6, M9+
I 3 Orchi, the The 3 Orcs, is a beautiful mixed climb close to Sappada. The first two pitches follow L’orco va in vacanza. Pitch three crosses curtains, drips and some cauliflower-like formations. Reach the belay after a delicate traverse. According to...
4Matic
4Matic - Laaser Ferner Wand
WI5
4Matic is a moderate, never particularly demanding ice climb on Laaser Ferner Wand. It can be considered an interesting alternative to the existing routes, Defender and Blue Wave (both established by Roland Math and Thomas Hofer, 2016). Laaser Ferner is a...
Cadeau de Noël
Cadeau de Noël - Aiguille du Toula
TD-, AI4+/5, M4
A pleasant couloir on Aiguille du Toula just a stone's throw from the Skyway cable car. Five fun pitches on ice, compressed snow and some mixed pitches.
Hybrid
Hybrid - Mur de Pisciadù
M8+, WI6
Interesting modern mixed climb to the left of the historic summer route Schwarze Wand and, in winter, the Mur de Pisciadù Eisfall.
Birthday Crack
Birthday Crack - Langental
M5+ WI5
This striking dihedral/corner had caught my attention a few times in the past, but I could never see much ice and so I never managed to explore it. However, when Mathieu flew over it with his paraglider and got a good view of how...
C'est trop facile
C'est trop facile - Aiguille du Toula
TD-, M6 e AI4+
A pleasant narrow couloir just a stone's throw from the Skyway cable car. Six pitches lead past difficulties in the region of TD-, M6 and AI4+ to the 3,534-meter summit of Aiguille de Toule.
La chula
La chula - Val Travenanzes
WI 5+
Beautiful and by no means easy ice climb with a slightly overhanging exit.
Todo me parece bonito
Todo me parece bonito - Val Travenanzes
WI 5
Beautiful and by no means easy ice climb that ascends the drip its the left.
Cataluña Express
Cataluña Express - Val Travenanzes
M5+ / WI4+
Cataluña Express starts with a mixed pitch which without cams becomes even more satisfying, and then finishes more easily up water ice.
Toxic Mushroom
Toxic Mushroom - Mont Noir de Peutérey
ED+, M8, AI 5+
A magnificent mixed climb with superb quality rock on the east face of the huge shield on Mont Noir de Peutérey. Every pitch is worth climbing and highly satisfying.
La Concha de la lora
La Concha de la lora - Crozzon di Val d'Agola
WI4+M7 R4 IV
Top-class line on the north-east face of Crozzon di Val d'Agola, with beautiful climbing, at times quite difficult and exposed.
Couloir Noire
Couloir Noire - Mont Noir de Peutérey
AI4, M5
Interesting mixed climbing on the NE Face of Mont Noir de Peuterey. Pitches of ice and compact snow lead to into the steep snow couloir, while the upper section provides pleasant mixed climbing through the gully to reach the ridge...
La Penultima
La Penultima - Elferkofel
WI4 M5+
Beautiful and varied mixed climb on Elferkofel / Cima Undici in the Sexten Dolomites. The route climbs an obvious up to the Cengia degli Alpini ledge and ends here.  Thos ewishing to repat the route are advised to take cams,...


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