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The fantastic view onto Ceüse, Haute Alpes, France.
Planetmountain.com
Beauty
Sectors
Difficulty
4a - 9a+
Height
30 - 200m
Routes number
230
Rock type
Superb quality French limestone.
Orientation
N, E, S
Rope
70m


Céüse is widely considered one of the best crags in the world, and quite rightly so. Situated at an altitude of almost 1800m, this crag seems to have it all, from cutting edge sports routes to a plethora of easy multi-pitches. The best time of year to visit Céüse is from April to August. Perfect climbing conditions can be found not only during those rare sunny winter days with zero humidity and 100% friction, but also during summer heatwaves which render most cliffs in the South of France unclimbable. By changing sectors throughout the day it is infact possible to escape from the sun to the shade and a refreshingly cool breeze. No wonder therefore that Ceüse has become the number one holiday destination for so many climbers!

Access

From Gap follow the signs to Veynes along the D994 to Fressinouse. From here take the D19 to Sigoyer. Drive through this village and turn right up towards Col du Guerins - continue until the road finishes at the parking lot. Two well-marked paths lead up to the base of the cliff. Either follow the path from the parking lot directly up or, far more pleasantly, gently stroll uphill on the path which starts from the curve below the bar. Both paths lead to the forest road at half-height and continue until they meet a path which runs perpendicular to the cliff. Turn right to get to Berlin or Demi Lune, or left to get to La Cascade. This is reached by a path which winds its way through some boulders up to the waterfall. The walk takes about 40 minutes; take your time, or you're bound to regret it the next day! 

Logistics

Most climbers stay in the Les Guerins campsite as it's the closest to the cliff, run by a friendly couple who own the little bar at the end of the road, and cheap. More comfortable accommodation can be found either at the hotel Muret in Sigoyer or in one of the numerous "gites rureaux", such as Les Couleurs du temp (www.lescouleursdutemps.com). Food can be bought in Sigoyer or in Gap (14km away).

Period

Spring, summer and autumn.

Climb

The climbing varies enormously from one sector to the next: climb up mega pumpy routes on huge pockets at La Cascade, get your arms blasted on the stamina routes at Berlin, or delight in the technical sequences at Demi Lune and Un pont sur l'infini. Ceüse has a reputation for the long run-outs between one bolt and the next, and these tend to incease the higher you get! Thankfully almost all the routes have recently been superbly re-equipped, so this "psychological factor" adds to the fun and excitement and makes the routes even more memorable!

The climbing sectors
1 - Golots à Gogo - Multi-pitch slab routes 5c/6a
2 - Dalles du capeps - Slab 5b/6b
3 - La Cascade - long overhanging face with pockets
4 - Rumble Gish - steep, pocketed slab. Excellent for warm-ups - 6b/7a+
5 - Thorgal - new routes on a vertical face - 6a+/6c+
6 - Face de Rat - steep overhang
7 - Berlin Wall - perhaps the most beautiful sector: extremely compact limestone. A must.
8 - Biographie - enormous overhang with extremely difficult routes - 6c/8c. The home of Realisation (Chris Sharma 2001).
9 - Demi lune - classic routes, some with long run-outs - 6a/8a+
10 - Un point sur l'infini - technical routes, some with long run-outs - 6b+/7a+
11 - Les maitres du monde
12 - Grande face - Magnificent steep multi-pitch routes. Descend either by abseil or down the Via Ferrata (2 ropes)
13 - Nithsapa
14 - Natilik - multi-pitch climbs

 

Notes

www.lescouleursdutemps.com
Bibliography

"Ceuse Grimer dans les Hautes-Alpes"

This covers not only Ceùse but also the other main cliffs Ventavon, Champsaur, Valgaudemar e Devoluy. It can be bought in Sigoyer or the campsite.

France : Haute Provence by Adrian Berry, Rockfax




Sectors

La Cascade
La Cascade. The routes from left to right.
Routes
Name Height Beauty Difficulty
1 Ténéré 7c+
2 Mirage 7c+
3 Vagabond d'occident 7c
4 Bleu Blanc Gyrophare 7c+
5 Blanches fesses 7c
6 Correspondance immaginaire 7c+
7 Corps ètrenger 7b+
8 Rosanna 8a
9 Association de malfaiteurs 7c+
10 Question d'èquilibre 8b+
11 Pieds nus sous les rodhodendrons 7c+
11 Felicitè 8b
12 Le privilège du serpent 7c+
12 Magnificat 8b
13 Fleur de lotus 7c
14 Super Mickey 7b+
15 Kéket blues 7b
16 Hyper Mickey 7c
17 Kéket direct 8a+
18 Tostaki 8a+
19 la tome de Savoie 8a
20 Alabama 7b+
21 Ananda 7a
22 Médicine douce 6c+
23 Women 7a+
24 Fletcher line 7b+
25 les sales blagues à Nanard 6c
26 De trous direct 6b
27 De trous encore des trous 5b,5b,5b,5b,6a
28 Baie des anges 7a+
29 Clochette étalée 6c
30 Pony boy 6c,6c+
31 Colombine panache 6b+
32 Rumble gish 6b,6c,7a
33 La femme piége 6b
34 La ballade de la mer salée 6b+
35 Alinoé 6b
36 Le maitre des montagnes 6b+
37 Pulp friction 6b
38 Les Daltons courent toujours 6b+
39 La touffe de ma Dalton 6a+
Berlin
The routes from left to right.
Routes
Name Height Beauty Difficulty
1 Monnaie de singe 8a
2 Blocage violent 7b+
3 Dolce vita 8a+
4 Petit Tom 7c+
5 Couleur du vent 8a
6 Berlin 7c
7 La chose 7c
8 Galaxy 7c
9 Makach Waloo 7c+
10 Queue de rat 7b+
11 Ratman 8a+
12 Bouse de douze 8a+
13 Le concombre masque 7c
14 ?
15 Petite illusion 7a+
16 Casse noisettes 7a
17 Le bleausard pressé 7a+
18 Zagreb 6c
19 Le moustique enrage 7a
20 Le moust 6b
21 Coup de blues pour petit dom 6b
22 Super mania 6b+
23 Blue comme l'enfer 6c+
24 Monzob sur mer 7b
Demi Lune
The routes from left to right.
Routes
Name Height Beauty Difficulty
1 La Femme Blanche 8a+
2 La Femme Noire 7c
3 La Chirurgien Du Crepuscule 8b
4 Le Poinconneur Des Lilas 8a+
5 Lami Caouette 8a+
6 Changement De Look 7b+
7 Joyeux Boucher 7c+
8 Marron Derriere 7b+
8 Marron Derriere ext. 7b+
9 Jaune Devant 7b+
10 Vieille Canaille 7b
11 Angel Dust 7a+
12 Mélody Nelson 7a+
13 La Javanaise 7a
14 Koumac Patom 7b+
15 Esperanza 7a+
16 Les Dingues et Les Paumés 7b+
17 El Daü 6c+
18 Les Dessous Chics 7a+
19 Harley Davidson 6b+
20 Marylou 6b+
21 Minette à la plage 7c
22 Chant De Cristal 6b+
23 Beauf story 6c
23 Beauf story ext 7b
24 Papyrus 6a+
25 Katina 6a
26 Carte Noire 6a
27 Uniqueaumonde.com 7c
28 Encore 8a+
29 Sea Sex And Sun 6a
30 Les Sucettes L Anis 6a
31 Radote joli pépère 8b
32 Canabis ou nutella 6b
33 Face D Iguane 6a+
34 Tete D Ampoule 6b
35 Le Bazard Fait Bien Les Choses 8b+
36 Petit Monstre 6a
37 Couille De Loup 6a+
38 A. Patrick 6a
39 Bonnye And Clyde 6c
40 Lapinerie 7b
41 Et Dieu Crèa Crèa La Flemme ?
42 Dures Limites 8c
43 Sueurs Froides 8a+
44 Carte Blanche 8a
45 Sans Peur Et Sanglier 7c+
46 Project ?





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Beauty
Sectors
Difficulty
4a - 9a+
Height
30 - 200m
Routes number
230
Rock type
Superb quality French limestone.
Orientation
N, E, S
Rope
70m


Position



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