Pik Pobeda and Peak Prezhevalskogo, new routes in Kyrgystan for Urubko, Durov and Dedeshko

Anna Piunova from mountain.ru reports that Kazakstan alpinists Denis Urubko and Gennadiy Durov have carried out a much-awaited first ascent on Pik Pobeda, 7439m in the Kokshaal Too range, Kyrgystan.

The two climbers set off from South Inylchek Base Camp on August 10 but were immediately stopped by fresh snow the next day. Deeming a decent too dangerous the two rested on the so -called "Pedestal" and were surprised by perfect weather the following morning. Thy then required a further three days to breach the headwall - which often involved scary simul-climbing - and summited on August 15 at 19.10 local time. The descent was initially carried out in poor weather but this improved as they lost height. The new route is called Dollar Rod and graded Russian 6B (the hardest on the Russian scale). Urubko had dreamt of the line since 1993.

Prior to the new route on Pik Pobeda, Urubko had acclimatised by spending a very windy night on the summit of Khan-Tengri (6995m) in the Central Tjan Shan mountain range, and establishing a new line on nearby Peak Prezhevalskogo, (6240m) together with Boris Dedeshko which required three bivies and is graded A2, F6b, M5.